
LIVING – CORRIERE DELLA SERA
SOPHIE HICKS: MY PRIVATE BRUTALISM
By Paola Menaldo
Photographs by Adrian Gaut
June 2019
A pioneer in luxury boutique architecture, the British architect has worked for Alaïa, Paul Smith, Chloé, Givenchy, Thierry Mugler, Acne Studios… and most recently for Max Mara.
It is the only thing you see in the window of the newly redesigned Max Mara boutique on Avenue Montaigne: a monumental spiral staircase featuring a central double helix in orange. “It’s a structural sculpture that catches the eye from the street; it acts like a magnet to draw customers in,” says Sophie Hicks, who led the renovation. “It’s orange because orange is camel on acid, isn’t it? My vision for Max Mara was to play with camel—their signature color—and to simplify and open up their corner location on the avenue, while breathing fresh life into the store in a harmonious, simple way.”
Minimal, even—a word that frequently comes up when describing the style of this luxury retail specialist. With her short hair, a small ponytail at the nape of her neck, a mischievous gaze, and a forthright manner, Sophie Hicks exudes the kind of free-spirited attitude typical of the 1980s fashion crowd. In fact, she started out in women’s magazines. “I answered an ad in *Harpers & Queen* looking for teenagers to help put together an issue. I was given a few fashion features to lay out. I went on to work as a fashion editor at British *Vogue* and *Tatler* during their heyday, before working with Azzedine Alaïa on staging his runway shows and collaborating with him on a book.”
In 1990, she changed course and enrolled at the Architectural Association in London. “Having previously worked in the luxury sector, when I meet the artistic directors of these fashion houses, I understand what they do and can translate their world into architecture.” Her very first project was a Paul Smith boutique in 1998. “I had already met him while working at Vogue… We exchanged ideas and created the Notting Hill store in London together. Paul had always dreamed of opening a space inside a house, so we played theatrically with the features of a private residence; I incorporated his maximalist, eccentric ideas into the architecture. It was a pivotal moment in the history of store design because, at the time, shops were generally minimalist—all chrome and glass.” Deeply involved in the selection of materials, the British designer loves working with simple elements—such as the plywood on the walls of Chloé boutiques (back when Phoebe Philo was creative director) or paper origami for Yohji Yamamoto—while punctuating her understated spaces with unique, surprising elements that are nonetheless full of whimsy.

SOPHIE HICKS: MY PRIVATE BRUTALISM
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Photographs by Adrian Gaut
June 2019

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